Kottayam The Home Town of Kumarakom

Kottayam

Kottayam is the nearest town, to Kumarakom. It is the district headquarters. This compact town centre is noisy, busy and increasingly polluted but the outskirts are pleasanter.

The eastern side of Kottayam district is the foothills of the Western Ghats and is intensively cultivated with cash crops, notably, rubber, tea, cardamom and pepper while the valley bottoms are given over to coconut trees and paddy.
The River Meenachil flows along its northern bank and takes a turn to the south to border its western boundary in Thazhathangadi. In the south also the town has a watery boundary in the River Kodur, which is a branch of Meenachil River. The Meenachil River has been of great navigational advantage to the town for centuries, being connected to the port of Alleppey (Alappuzha) and Kochi through the Lake Vembanad.

The antiquity of Kottayam is a matter of conjecture. There is a view that in ancient days it was a seaport town from where the pepper, produced in Palai and other places in Meenachil, made its way to the countries of the west. It is suggested that Arabian Sea receded to its present boundary in the course of several centuries. If this assumption is correct, Kottayam must have been a centre of maritime trade and a meeting place of ancient civilizations.

Kottayam is called the land of lake, letters and latex. It is the main Christian centre in Kerala. It is also a place of churches and seminaries. It is the place where the first vernacular newspaper Deepika started it’s publishing and the largest daily Malayala Manorama is printed. Six major daily newspapers are published from this small town. They are Deepika (owned by Catholic Church), Malayala Manorama (of an industrial house), Mangalam (owned by an individual), Mathrubhoomi (owned by a publishing company), Kerala Kaumudi (owned by another family in Thiruvananthapuram) and Desabhimani (the organ of the Communist Party of India (Marxist) – CPI (M)). Kottayam is the headquarters of Sahithya Pravarthaka Sahakarana Sanghom (SPCS) the first and biggest writers’ co-operative society that publishes Malayalam books and distributes them through its chain stalls throughout Kerala. Kerala’s biggest publishing house DC Books is also centred at Kottayam. The pioneer work in the field of western education and female education started in this town by CMS missionaries. The first Malayalam press (CMS press) where the first Malayalam Bible was printed also started in Kottayam.
The town was undoubte- dly the meeting ground of all the three great religions of the land viz; Hinduism, Christianity and Islam as evidenced by the large number of temples, churches and mosques in the area. The existence of the religious shrines of different communities in close proximity to one another is proof of the glorious tradition of religious toleration and communal harmony that prevails in this part of the country from time immemorial.
There are about 50 temples in and around Kottayam town. Side by side with the remnants of the old palaces and forts of the Tekkumkur Rajas at Thazhathangadi in the western outskirts of Kottayam may be seen the ancient Thaliyil Siva Temple. The most important of the temples in the town is the Thirunakkara Mahadevan Temple. The Keralapuram temple dedicated to Krishna and Pallipurathukavu Bhadrakali temple Kodimatha are at east and south of Thirunakkara Temple.

In addition to Hindu temples and churches, Kottayam has its mosques as well. The old mosque of Thazhathangadi had its origin in the days of Thekkumkur Rajas. It stands in the vicinity of many temples and churches as a symbol of communal harmony.

It was with Church Mission Society (CMS) missionaries in 18th century that Kottayam entered an era of educational progress and enlightenment.
These Christian missionaries working in the District in 18th and 19th centuries enriched Malayalam literature by their valuable works. The first travelogue in Malayalam Varthamana Pusthakom or Travel to Rome (1778) written by Paremakkil Thomas Kathanar (1740-99) was published in Kottayam. The CMS missionaries who made Kottayam the centre of their activities compiled several outstanding works in Malayam. Rev. Benjamin Bailey who founded the CMS Press in Kottayam (1821) published a Malayalam – English Dictionary in 1846. Rev. Richard Collins who was the principal of the CMS College Kottayam

Rev. Benjamin Bailey

published a Malayalam Dictionary of his own in 1865.
Kottayam is an important centre for rubber production and it is the biggest rubber market in Asia. The headquarters of Rubber Board and Rubber Research Institute are in Kottayam.

Kottayam town is surrounded by some of the most fertile and beautiful scenery in the State, with hills and backwaters. Here is a list of some places other than Kumarakom.

The First Printing Press

founded by Bailey in Kottayam (1821)
Sri Mahadeva Temple, Thirunakkara: This famous temple situated in the heart of Kottayam town has exquisite paintings. One who looks at these paintings gets the impression that they show real pulsations of life.
Saraswathy Temple, Panachikkadu: The famous Goddess Saraswathi temple at Panachikkad (near Chingavanam) is unique as the idol of the goddess of learning is invisible, since it is consecrated in a pit submerged in water. A creeper that grows wild there obstructs vision of the idol. On Vijaya dasami day large number of children are initiated in the letters of alphabet in this temple. The main offering is thri-madhuram. Mahadeva Temple, Ettumanoor: The temple is 10 km north of Kottayam. It was constructed in 1542. It’s murals depicting scenes from Ramayana and the Krishna legends are famous. The Arattu festival in March draws thousands of pilgrims. The main offering to the God has to be made as Kanikka mostly in cash and hence the temple is one of the richest temples in this State.

Peermade: It is on the way from Kottayam to Thekkadi (National park) route. Tea, rubber and cardamom plantations surround it.

Wagamon: This hill station, at an elevation of 1,100 meters above sea level is a trekkers’ delight. It is on the Idukki-Kottayam border. The breeding center of the Kerala Livestock Board is located here.

Elaveezhapoonchira: This is a picnic spot located in the midst of beautiful hillocks. It is easily accessible from Pala. Elaveezhapoonchira means valley where leaves don’t fall and is named so because the place has no trees.

Vazhikkadavu: This hill station of rocky terrain is on the outskirts of the district. On one side of the main rock are extremely tall and steep rocks and on the other is a valley of terrible depth. Bordering this crude landscape is the Meenachil River. During the months of December/January, the landscape comes alive in a riot of colours with orchids and wild flowers.

Poonjar Palace: The palace is a testimony to the regal opulence of byegone era. Within the palace walls, is an extraordinary royal collection of antiques and exquisite furniture which include a palanquin, a thoni -carved out of a single piece of wood – for Ayurvedic massages, huge chandeliers, palm leaf engraving, jewel boxes, different varieties of lamps, sculptures of Nataraj (dancing Lord Shiva), grain measures, statues and weapons.

A unique conch preserved here is taken out once a year for ritualistic purposes.
Thattans (goldsmiths) Kallasaries (masons) and Ganakas (astrolegers). But they are a small section among Hindus. Dheevara community whose main occupation is fishing forms a small segment of Hindus. The male members fish from the lake and the females do door to door selling of fishes.
The most backward among Hindu community is categorized as per constitutional law as Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes. Their population in this village is very small. A majority from among the scheduled castes were converted to Christianity and therefore are not considered as scheduled castes. They are considered as Backward Christians.

The most important sects among scheduled castes are Parayas (sambavar) and the Pulayas (cheramar) Velans whose traditional work is white washing and lime making are also included among scheduled castes. The Pulayas in Kumarakom were hard working agricultural labourers. There are Hindu Pulayas and Christian Pulayas.

The only scheduled tribe in Kumarakom is Ulladan. This race is almost extinct in many parts of Kerala. A few of them however are seen in Kumarakom. They catch and eat tortoise and are non-vegetarians. They make plates using arecnut palm. Foods are collected in such plates and sometimes they use them as hats also. Their main job is fishing and canoe making.

Hindu Religious Beliefs and Practices
The religious beliefs and practices of the Hindus here represent a fusion of Aryan and Dravidian ideas. There are a number of Non-Aryan religious beliefs and practices, which have become part of the Hindu religious faith. Serpent worship and ancestor worship are admittedly non-Aryan practices.

The origin of snake worship goes back to remote antiquity. But in no part of the world is snake worship still prevalent as in Kerala. In almost every house the south-west corner of the compound is set apart for a snake shrine called Sarppakavu. The proposition of the serpent god is considered essential to the well being and prospirity of the family.

According to the tradition the first Aryan colonists brought by Parasurama found Kerala uninhabitable. So they left. Then the Naagas (Snakes) of the lower world came and occupied the land. When the Aryans came again they found the land occupied and waged war against the Nagas. Parasurama decided to favour the early colonists and ordered that they should set apart a corner of their compound as an abode for the serpent god. This grove which is found in some houses for snake worship is an evidence of the connection between the Nagas and the Dravidian peoples.There are some such groves still in Kumarakom.

The Naaga shrines at Mannarassala is the most important serpent worship centre in Kerala. It is a small beautifull village about 3 kms North-west of Sri Subrahmonya Temple at Haripad in Alleppey District.
Ancestor worship has also been an age-old practice. The deceased ancestors are looked upon as benefactors of the taravad and special pujas are performed on New Moon days to propitiate them. There are certain important shrines in this District, such as the one at Vedagiri near Ettumanur, which are visited by people for performance of Vavu Bali on Amavasi or New Moon days. It may be mentioned that Vavu Bali is an important ritual connected with ancestor worship.In Kumarakom also hundreds of people gather together at SKM Temple for Vavu Bali every year.
Apart from practising serpent worship and ancestor worship, the Hindus also venerate animals and birds like the cow, bull, garuda, peacock and the monkey. There are also certain plants, which are considered by them as especially sacred. The Aswatha, the Bilva and the Tulsi may be particularly mentioned in this connection. Pradakshinams round the Aswatha (peepul) tree are believed to bring religious merit. The Bilva is sacred to Siva and is largely used in his worship. The Tulasi is likewise sacred to Vishnu but it is also used in all temples for pujas, irrespective of the deity.

The Hindus worship all the Gods and Goddesses of the Hindu pantheon such as Siva, Vishnu, Bhagavathi, Sastha, and Subramonian etc. Kottayam is famous for its great temples or Mahakshetrams dedicated to Siva. The Siva temples of Vaikom, Kaduthuruthi, Ettumanur, Tirunakkara, Thazhathangadi, Kadapattur, Lalom, Mariapally and Vazhapally are among the most famous of their kind in the District.
In Kumarakom also there are two Siva temples. The existence of such a large number of famous Siva temples in the same area perhaps shows the predominant influence exerted by the Saiva cult in this District in the ancient past. It is also significant that compared to the neighboring District of Alleppey; there are only a few Vishnu temples of repute in Kottayam. The more important among them are those of Trikkodithanam, Tiruvarpu, Kudamalur, and Bharananganam etc. At Aymanam, near Kumarakom there is an ancient temple dedicated to Vishnu in the form of Narasimha. There is also another Narasimha temple at Manganam to the east of Kottayam. In this District there are two famous temples dedicated to Sri Rama. They are located at Tirumanivenkitapuram (Vaikom, taluk) and Ramapuram (Meenachil Taluk). Within a radius of 3 k.m. from the latter temple are situated the temples of Kudappalam, Amanakara and Methiri dedicated to Lakshmana, Bharata and Satrughna respectively. The Tirumuzhikulam temple (Mulakkulam village) is dedicated to Lakshmana while the Vennimala temple is dedicated to both Sri Rama and Lakshmana. The existence of two separate flagstaffs side by side is a special feature of the latter temple. One of the famous Bhagavati temples of Kerala is located at Kumaranallur in this District. There are important Bhagavati temples at Peruvantanam, Perunnai and Cheruvalli. There are temples dedicated to Subramonian at Udayanapuram, Kidangur, Edappadi, Perunnai and Munnar. The District is particularly famous for the Sastha cult. Sabarimala, the most celebrated of the Sastha shrines in the country, is situated in the Peermade Taluk of Idukki District. There are also Sastha temples at Erumeli, Punjar, Devikulam, Kumarakom, and Vedavyasagiri. Ganapathi is accommodated as a minor deity in many temples. In the Siva temple in Vazhapally the worship of Ganapathi is more popular than that of the main deity, Siva. At Adityapuram near Kaduthuruthi there is a temple dedicated to Aditya, the Sun God. Panachikkadu in Kottayam Taluk has a famous shrine dedicated to Saraswathy, the Goddess of Learning. As temples dedicated to the Sun God and Saraswathi are rare, the Adityapuram and Panachikkad shrines assume special significance. At Olassa there is a temple dedicated to Dhanwantari Deva (Physician of the gods)
Temple Rites:

The worship in the temples of the District is open to all irrespective of sex. To an average Hindu, the day bigins with a bath in the temple tank. He makes a dash to the temple with the mundu still wet and circumambulates the deity, chanting the Lord’s name.With his forehead, chest and arms smeared with holy ashes and sandal paste he emerges into the work a day world with the feeling that the day has begun well for him.Hindu life is intimately associated with temples.

The rituals are of a very elaborate nature prescribed in the Tantras (rituals). The priest performs the Puja or worship after he has purified himself by the performance of such external acts like dhyanam (meditation) and japam (prayer). This is followed by the offerings of water, flower, sandal, incense, camphor etc. The number of daily Pujas varies in different temples as per the importance of each. The maximum is five and the minimum one. The daily Pujas are called Nityanidanam. Under this head comes the abhishekam, puja, nivedyam, namaskaram, sribeli etc. The devotees offer vazhipadu, which consist of nivedyams, archanas, lighting etc. The kanikka or the depositing of coins is a common practice in most temples. Devotees also offer ornaments and other valuables to the deity. Each temple has its distinctive vazhipadu.
In the temple in Ettumanoor it is the payment of money, in Vaikom it is the feeding of Brahmins. In Vazhapally the main vazhipdu is the Appam offered to Ganapathi and in Thiruvarppu it is the Uzhapayasam. In Subramonia temples like Udayanapuram, Kidangoor etc. the main offering is the Kavadi. It consists of an offering of sandal, rose water etc. to Lord Subramonia carried in posts over the shoulders of the devotees, the posts being suspended from the ends of a pole well decorated with tapestry and feathers of the peacock. At Sabarimala, the pilgrims make lavish offering of rupees and images in gold and silver. Appam and aravana payasam are also popular vazhipadu here, Muzhukappu or the artistic coating of the idol with sandal paste is an important vazhipadu in many temples. In most of the major temples there is an annual utsavam. The function consists of special services and processions. Exhibitions of various arts like Kathakali, Ottam Tullal, patakam etc., are conducted for the benefit of the devotees. During the processions the idol of the deity is taken round in pradakshinam inside the temple on the back of an caparisaned elephant to the accompaniment of nagaswaram and other forms of music. Some of the major temples have their own elephants and teams of artists for the purpose.

The temples of the District are now open to all the Hindus irrespective of caste. However till a quarter of a century ago, the so-called Avarnas or backward classes were prevented from entering the temples. They could offer worship only from allotted places of prescribed distance. In course of time a feeling of self-respect asserted itself among the backward classes and the demand for temple entry took shape. The new movement secured the sympathetic support of large numbers of people belonging to the Savarnas or Higher Castes. The Vaikom Satyagraha that was conducted in 1924 under the auspices of the Indian National Congress to secure admission for the backward classes to the approach roads adjacent to the famous Vaikom temple was a turning point in the history of this movement. On November 2, 1936, His Highness Sri Chitra Thirunal issued the famous Temple Entry Proclamation throwing open the temples of Travancore to all Hindus irrespective of caste.
Fasts and Festivals
The Hindus observe several fasts or Vrithams with a view to propitiating various Gods and Goddesses and acquiring spiritual benefits. The important fasts are those undertaken on the Shashti, Ekadasi, Pradosham and Full Moon days. In addition, the Hindus also observe a number of religious festivals. In Chingam (August-September) the Ashtami Rohini the sacred day on which Lord Krishna was born, is celebrated. The Vinayaka Chaturthi which falls on the fourth day of the bright fortnight in Chingam (August-September) is sacred to Ganapati. People are prohibited to see the Moon on this day as it is supposed to bring miseries and misfortunes of all kinds. The Navaratri festival falls in Kanni (September-October). It is a nine-day festival and is a favorable period for the worship of Sakthi. The last three days are set apart for the worship of Saraswathi. Throughout the Durgashtami, Mahanavami and Vijaya Dasami days the worshippers are prohibited from doing their customary work. The Vijayadasami or Puja Eduppu day is regarded as auspicious for the beginning of children’s education – vidyarambha. It is customary in this District for the parents to take their children to such places as Vedavyasagiri and Panachikkad Sarswathi shrine in order to initiate them formally into the study of the letters (Vidyarambha). Narakachaturdasi or Deepavali falls in the month of Tulam (October-November). It is also known as the festival of lights. Trikkarthika is another festival, which falls in the month of Vrichigam (November-December). Its main feature is the illumination of Hindu houses in the night. The Thypuyam festival that falls in

Makaram (January-February) is sacred to Subramonia and special offerings are made to the Lord on this day. Thy pongal and Mattu pongal which fall on the first and second days respectively in the month of Makaram (January-February) are also important festivals. The former is the harvest feast of South India. On the occasion of the latter festival the cows and bulls which have been of service to the people in the previous agricultural seasons are bathed, decorated and fed. The animals are not made to work on that day. Maha Sivaratri the day on which Lord Siva danced the Thandava dance is celebrated in Kumbham (February-March). The Sri Rama Navami is a nine-day festival that falls in the month of Medam (April-May). The Navami or the ninth day is the anniversary of the birth of Sri Rama.
Onam

The most important national festival of Kerala is Onam and people regardless of caste or creed observe it. It is the harvest festival of Kerala and falls in the month of Chingam (August-September). The festival lasts for ten days of which the last four are more important than the rest. According to tradition it is celebrated in memory of Mahabali, the mythological king of Kerala whose reign was one of undisturbed peace and prosperity and who is supposed to revisit the land once a year. A portion of the front yard of every Hindu house is cleared and decorated with flowers on these days. On the last four days pyramid-shaped images of Trikkakara Appan (the deity of Trikkakkara), made of wood or clay, are set up at the place and pujas offered. The senior members of the family present clothes (Onapudava) to the juniors and servants. A sumptuous feast is held on Tiru Onam day. The people make themselves merry by participating in various sports and field games.

Vishu

The festival of Vishu, which falls on the first day of Medam (April-May), the Malayalee New Year Day, is equally important. It coincides with the Tamil New Year Day (Chithira Vishu). The main ceremony connected with Vishu is Kani Kanal (literally having the first sight): On the night previous to the Vishu day the Kani is arranged. It consists of a number of things believed to be auspicious. Palmyra leaf-book, gold ornaments, new white cloth, a measure of rice or paddy, bell-metal mirror, halved jack fruit, flowers of Konna tree, halved coconut, yellow cu-cumber and two standing oil lamps with coconut oil emitting sparkling light are placed in a convenient room. On the morning of the Vishu day every member of the family gets up early and sees the Kani. The Malayalee believes that if he sees these auspicious things on the first day of the New Year, the whole of the year will be lucky for him. The Sastha Shrine at Sabarimala is visited by Hindus in their thousands on Vishu day. Children and poor people get gifts of money from elders on the occasion of the Vishu. This is called Vishu Kaineettam.
Tiruvathira, another characteristic festival, is observed in Dhanu (December-January). It is of special importance to women as it is supposed to commemorate the death of Kamadeva (God of Love) who was reduced to ashes by Lord Siva while attempting to wake him up from his penance.
Hindu Customs and Manners

Each caste and community among the Hindus has had its own typical customs and manners. The Talikettukalyanam, Tirandukuli, Puli Kudi etc., once formed the main customary ceremonies among the Nairs and the Ezhavas who followed the Marumakkathayam system. Talikettukalyanam was performed for all girls before they attained puberty. The essential part of the ceremony lay in the tying of the Tali (a small piece of gold attached to

A Hindhu Marriage

a string) round the neck of the girl by a male belonging to the same or higher caste. It may be mentioned that the Tali tier did not have any claim on the girls, as the Talikettukalyanam was not a real marriage. It was done only with a view to giving the girl a marriageable status. The ceremony of Tirandukuli was celebrated when a girl attained puberty. The girl was kept in a separate room for about four days. In the room a lamp was lit and a brass pot with a bunch of coconut flowers was kept. A Kurava proclaimed the event. Friends and relatives were invited and treated to a sumptuous feast. The girl used to get presents from the guests. Another ceremony viz., Pulikudi (tamarind juice drinking) was quite essential for pregnant women in the ninth month of pregnancy. The ceremonies described above have now become defunct as social reformers worked hard to rouse public opinion against them.
Among the ceremonies, which are still current among the Hindus, may be mentioned Namakaranam, Chorunu, Vidyarambham, Upanayanam, and Sardha etc. The Namakaranam or naming ceremony is generally celebrated within a month of the child’s birth. The father sits cross-legged before a lighted lamp, near which is placed a vessel containing the eight auspicious things ashtamangalyam. He then places the child on his lap and whispers the proposed name three times in its right ear. Annaprasanam or Chorunu takes place when the child is six months old. This is the first feeding of the child with rice. The child is placed on the lap of the father and is then given rice and curries. This ceremony is performed in temples also. Vidyarambham or initiation into the letters of the alphabet is gone through in the 3rd or 5th year of the child. Usually it takes place on the Vijayadasami day (Puja Eduppu Day). The father takes the child on his knees and writes the alphabets, the letters being traced in rice by the father holding the ring finger of the child. Upanayanam, which is common among the Brahmins, is the investiture of the boy with the sacred thread. It is generally performed in the 8th year of the child. All Brahmins, both indigenous and non-indigenous, perform this ceremony. Srardha is the ceremony of making offerings to the departed spirits of forefathers. This is performed every year. Cooked rice, plantain fruits, coconuts, parched rice, etc., are served as offerings on plantain leaf and kept in a room with a lamp in front of it. After some time the room is opened and the offerings are distributed among the members of the family. The Hindus generally cremate their dead bodies, while those of children under two or three years of age as well as those of persons who have died of small pox or cholera are buried. When a Hindu is at the point of death, the junior members pour a few drops of water or milk into his mouth from a small cup made of the Tulasai Plant. Relatives and others are immediately informed when the person dies. The body is placed at the central courtyard with the head to the south. It is then washed anointed and neatly clothed and marks of bhasma (sacred ash) and sandal pastes are made on the forehead and joints. The body is laid on a long plantain leaf after it is covered with new clothes. Then it is taken to the cremation ground on the shoulders by the nearest relatives, sons, nephews etc. Before the cremation blood relations put rice (vaikari) in the mouth of the dead body. While in some parts of the State cow dung is used for the purpose of cremation, it is seen that in various parts of this district the mango tree is felled and cut into pieces and used as fuel for cremation. The eldest son who is the chief mourner cuts a piece from the wrapped new cloth and wears it round the waist, tucking to his waist a piece of iron. This is done before setting fire to the pyre. The chief mourner with a pot of water goes round the pyre thrice letting the water out from a pierced hole. Then he allows the pot on the head to fall from his back. The sanchayanam or the ceremony of the disposal of the bones of the dead person is done on the 5th or the 7th day. The mourners collect unburnt bones and ash and these are put in a mud pot covered with another and is buried underneath a jack tree. On a later occasion they are carried to some holy place and consigned to the river or sea. On the death of a person the obsequies (making offering to the deceased) continues till the period of pollution is over which may be for 16 days or less. It is also the custom among certain castes to observe diksha (i.e. growing beard) for 41 days or a year following the death.

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PG Padmanabhan

P.G. Padmanabhan was born and brought up in Kumarakom a village 12 Kms west of Kottayam. Studied in local schools, CMS College Kottayam, Cooperative College, Thiruvananthapuram, and Government Law College, Kochi. His real life was lived with Kerala Sasthra Sahithya Parishat (KSSP), third world's renowned pioneer people's science movement in which he has been an active participant since 1972. He could carry out many systematic and participatary studies on Kumarakom. Being an insider and one among them he could observe the people of Kumarakom personally and intimatelly. His books on Kumarakom is authoritative.

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